Conversion To Throttle Body Injection (TBI)

TR6 Home

TBI - 1 Year Later

Emissions Test

TBI Home

Removing Old Stuff

O2 & TPS Sensor

By Pass Block Off

Carb Adapters

Injector Installation

Fuel Tank & Lines

Fuel Pump

Fuel Lines


ECM Connections

1st Start Check List

1st Start Results

Driving Impressions

Reliability & Parts

ECM Trouble Codes

Flashing A Chip


Gas Tank & Fuel Lines (Con't)

I learned something new about Teflon tape this past weekend......and learned I was wrong two years keep on reading!! Now, I've known that you shouldn't use the basic plumbing Teflon tape in a gas environment but what I didn't know is that there are different Teflon tapes for use in different conditions

Blue, Yellow & Red Teflon Tapes

The tape that's in the blue package is for regular plumbing in a water environment. The red is for use with solvents while the yellow is for use with in natural gas.........but I thought gas meant gasoline and used the yellow tape on all my gasoline fittings. So now (12/2008) I've learned that I used the wrong stuff and I'll be changing every gas fitting out and using the correct product for a gasoline environment.

Available at your local Home Depot Plumbing Department....... a life time supply!

John sent me all the parts required for getting the fuel from the tank to the carbs/TBI. The electronics and my converted/modified distributor should arrive around Christmas.

Regulator, 2 injectors, Fuel Pump, Pump Sleeve & Bracket with Hoses and Fittings
The fittings with the yellow rings are Push Lock fittings with no camps required.
But look at all the yellow Teflon tape that has to be replaced!!

The regulator is custom made from billeted aluminum for these conversions and has a number of fittings better seen in the picture below.

Looks like a pretty complete regulator to me - The return line is needed because about 50% of the fuel delivered isn't needed, so it gets returned to the gas tank!

There's a rubber sleeve that comes with the pump which needs to be cut so that you have a 1/3 piece and a 2/3's piece. Then the big piece goes in the little piece and the whole thing slides over the pump. Rub a little liquid soap over the pump housing and it will slide right on.

Cut 1/3 off and then slide the big part into the little part The Double Sleeve goes over the pump with a little soap

Pump in Mounting Bracket - Included bolt was to short too mount to TR6 frame

The next picture shows the sleeve on the pump but more importantly, it shows the terminals have been "painted" with magic marker and the In and Out sides of the pump have also been marked. The reason for doing this is to make sure there's no mistake made when you're attaching the pump to the frame. The terminal + & - marks are stamped on the pump but they're very hard to see. So use a red marker on the + terminal and a black marker on the - terminal.

Marking the Terminals Saves Aggravation


Now the Fuel Pump Parts - All supplied by John

Once I got to actually putting this pump assembly up under the car, I realized we had a problem.........I had 18" of room in which to fit over 20" of pump, fittings and filter. I'm not great at math but I knew this wasn't going to work. I exchanged a few emails with both Rick and John and Rick emailed me NAPA part numbers for fittings that would eliminate the Blue and Red hoses that John provides. John provides this set up for all of his applications which tend to be more American Iron then LBC so there's more frame space available. As noted on the previous page, the filter is now mounted vertically which freed up even more space.

Fuel Pump and Fittings Need to Fit Here
This Got The Pump & Fittings Down To 12 1/2"

This is the final configuration of fittings for the pump. With Rick Patton's help, he came up with NAPA part numbers that allowed for a minimum of pieces to get to the correct hose size. On the left, the pump has a 1/2" barb that has to get reduced to a 3/8" barb to match the hose from the tank. On the right the pump has a 5/16" barb has has to get increased to 3/8" to match the hose going to the carbs. Obviously I haven't put any clamps on the hose yet in this picture. And now a word about Push-Loc fittings..........they are a PAIN to work with but here's a few tips to make it easier:

  • Give yourself "elbow" room and extra hose to work with. I did the pump end before running the hose along the chassis.

  • Slop lots of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) on the barb for lubrication.

  • Use a Q-Tip and coat the inside of the hose end with ATF.

  • Warm up the hose end. I used a heat gun to warm the last 4 inches of hose to make it more pliable. I heated it to the point where it was quite warm to the touch. This was critical when working in 50 degree weather. Maybe if it was 90 out it wouldn't be an issue.

  • Line the hose and barb up and push with all your might! You want to get the hose up against the yellow plastic collar.

  • Run the hose along the chassis all the way to where the regulator will mount and tie it loosely in place. Cut it to length and then cut the wire ties to give you needed slack at the regulator end. Now repeat the steps above.

  • There are no clamps used with Push-Loc fittings....the fittings with the yellow plastic ring.

Fuel Pump Bracket Mounted to Frame Required a 4" long 5/16" Bolt
Filter to Pump Input Pump Output to Fuel Line

Next Up is Running the Fuel Lines....more