Gas Tank & Fuel Lines
While the tank is out getting
cleaned, I started the preliminary work on the gas lines. Basically I have to
run all new line from the tank to the carbs. Most of the line will be coming
from John in the form of Push Lock hose designed for high pressure fuel
situations. I didn't want to use steel line as there would be a lot of custom
bending and compression fittings involved like Rick did on Aaron's car. It looks
great but running high pressure hose works just as well and is a lot easier to
work with. The hose and fittings that John provides is rated at 250 PSI
and is what he uses when he does installations. The TBI conversion requires a
low pressure return line from the fuel pressure regulator, so I'll just be
re-using my existing steel fuel line for that......I mean it's all just sitting
there doing nothing at this point!
What a dirty looking
trunk....but no Rust :-)
I've always had a slight gas smell in
my car but I could never find its source or even see any evidence of a leak.
When I pulled the tank there was a sponge-like donut that sat on the Gas Tank
Outlet hole in the picture above. The tank rested on it and the gas line passed
through it.....and it reeked of gas! My guess is there must have been a tiny,
infrequent leak at the compression fitting that worked its way to this donut
causing the smell. After a thorough soaking and cleaning, it now smells like
Purple Muscle now.
Source of Gas Smell
Monday I'll drop off the fittings I need soldered
in to the gas tank and then it's wait for the tank to be done and John's kit to arrive.
December 1st and the
weather continues to be unseasonably warm with
temperatures in the high 50's to low 60's. I picked up
the gas tank today and for $50 it was acid dipped,
cleaned, tested and 2 fittings soldered in place.
Because the tank is steel and the fittings are brass,
the 2 "welding" options are: brazing and soldering.
Soldering was used because he believes it gives a better
seal in a liquid environment.
one of the "challenges" is finding the right
fittings and sized to use in a liquid environment.
What made this a lot easier was Rick's knowledge of
what is the best fitting to use, coupled with his
ownership of a NAPA store or two. So basically Rick
gave me the part number and I went and bought it at
my local NAPA store.
hindsight I would have located the tank return
fitting in one of two other locations. The spot I
choose requires an elbow or 90 degree fitting to
allow for hose clearance. I learned that from inside
the car there's lots of room above the tank but the
rear deck has a slight slope which limits clearance
on trunk side.......where I put the fitting.
I used a 90
degree elbow and a straight barb for the
Rick's expensive ($35) suggestion and sprung for the
NAPA fuel shut off valve. I know there are cheaper
alternatives but at this point.................. :-)
The fuel flow from the tank is gravity fed to the
pump so I just screwed the 1/4 NPT male fitting on
the shut off valve directly into the tank fitting. On the other side of the shut
off is a 1/4" NPT Male straight barb with a short
section of 3/8" hose that connects to the filter. It's a tight fit for the
fuel shut off valve relative to the frame and tank so I have
to remove its handle and reverse it to get enough clearance.
When it's in the open position, you want the "arrow"
end of the handle pointing at the tank. It was also
easier to screw this in with the tank leaning away
from it's vertically mounted position. I poured
about 1/2 gallon of gas into the tank and found no
leaks! Yippee............ and a quick turn of the
valve handle got the gas flowing...........on to the
garage floor! Damn hose jumped out of the container.
Well, at least the valve works, I wanted to mount
the filter in a horizontal postion directly before
the pump but space was at a premium so I moved it to
a vertical position right after the shut off valve.
Shut Off Valve
is the fuel pump......more