Goodparts Wilwood Calipers


TR6 Home

Wilwood Install 1

Wilwood Install 2

Wilwood Install 3













Back to the garage to finish up the driver's side. Once this side is complete, I'll move to the other side.

Everything back on........... I won't go through the steps to set the bearing "pressure" as it's different with Uncle Jack's Stub Axles from stock.
And after I got the hub back on I looked over and saw the F@$*#ing shield on the floor! And the only way you can get this back on is to totally remove the hub assembly again........ARGHHHHH...... and to add insult to injury..............there's no need to even remove the darn thing. Live and learn...............

The kit comes with a bag of bolts and two new brake lines.

The kit comes with new caliper bolts and four sets of three different thickness 7/16" washers. These are used to set the spacing of the caliper around the rotor.
IMPORTANT: There's two things you need to determine: what size washer is needed at the red arrow to center the pads on the rotor AND what size washer is needed at the blue arrow to keep the bolt from protruding through the mounting hole, green arrow, and hitting the rotor. I used the thickest washer at the blue arrow and the middle size as the spacer, red arrow.

As you can see the rotor is centered between the pads.

This label covers the brake fluid inlet hole for the fitting.

Just an empty hole for now...............

Here are the brake line fittings.............. see how they have those little plastic caps on them?
This is the fitting that goes into the back of the caliper. Don't do what I did and remove ONE of the plastic covers and then use sealing compound on .... the wrong side! The compound goes on the flat I had to clean all the compound off of the other threads.

Per the instructions, I used a Teflon thread sealer.

This was the only scary part for me. The fitting screws into the caliper and has to end up facing forward and at a 45 degree angle up. Seeing as the caliper body is some sort of lightweight alloy, I had visions of stripping the threads.

But it all went around just fine and then threaded on the brake line.

This fitting goes on the frame and the red arrow end points up and the green arrow end secures it to the frame.
The directions said to secure it tightly to the frame but if you do that, it's almost impossible to get the steel line flared fitting lined up properly. The paper towel covers the fitting to keep anything from falling into the line. If you keep this fitting loose, you can angle it to line up with the flared fitting, attach the flare and tighten it to the frame fitting. Once that's tight, you can secure the frame fitting to the frame.

Here's everything all connected and tight.

Looking good........... just need to bleed them.

For bleeding the brakes, I use this old master cylinder cap with a regular old tire valve stem.
When you buy the valve stem the package tells you what size hole its made drill a hole that size in the cap and pull the valve stem through. You don't need much pressure +-10 psi is plenty and doing it this way eliminates the need for someone to work the brake pedal.

The only thing different with bleeding the Wilwood calipers is that there are four (4) bleed valves. You only use the ones on the top of the caliper for bleeding and we started farthest from the master cylinder which was the right side outside valve. When that was done we did the inside valve and then moved to the left side of the car and repeated. When you're using constant air pressure with a compressor you want to check the master cylinder frequently to make sure you don't run out of fluid. If that happens, you've put air into the system and you have to start over again.