Goodparts Wilwood Calipers


TR6 Home

Wilwood Install 1

Wilwood Install 2

Wilwood Install 3













Sometime around November 2011, I started to make Fender Blankets that caught on with the guys in The 6-Pack Forum as well as people finding my web site. In the space of about 3 months I sold fifty blankets at $50 each which netted me sufficient funds to make two "major" purchases........... Goodparts Wilwood front calipers and a set of grey VTO LeMans wheels. Richard Good is a TR6 racer who has turned his talents to sourcing and producing many upgrades for the TR6. Anyone who has cruised my site has seen his: radiator shroud, solid steering rack mounts, Nissan differential conversion, adjustable trailing arm kit, Nylatron bushings and CVJs........ whew.......and I paid full price for everything! I toyed with getting his dual master cylinder but decided against it at this point.

The first thing you'll notice with the Wilwood calipers is how light they are at only 5 lbs. By comparison the stock calipers weighed in at 9 lbs 8 oz. Almost twice the weight. When you order them Richard will ask what size your rear brake cylinders are as that will determine which Wilwood piston size you get. To quote Richard: "I have the front calipers with 1.38" or with 1.62" pistons. The 1.38" will provide a better front to rear balance when used with stock rear brakes but will require a little more pedal effort. The 1.62" are best used with upgraded rear brakes." I have the larger Morgan/Sunbeam cylinders so I got the 1.62" pistons.

Good looking and quality craftsmanship.

The arrows point out the modifications I could find. The stock mounting holes were plugged and new holes drilled to match the TR6 mount. The two top arrows point to another area that had been shaved a little to clear the TR6 mounting "ears".
There's four bleed nippples though you only use the top two to bleed the brakes. My guess is that they install four of them as there's not a left/right caliper so when they're mounted you always have two on the top.

Installing the pads require removal of a bolt and spacer.

And they're out.

Then this big clip slides back & off after pinching your fingers a few times!

I got the stock street pads and they're idiot proof to install. The clip has to go through the hole by the blue arrow.
Here you can see the pads installed with the clip locked in place and passing through all four holes.
I had the area around the master cylinder wrapped up tight with a towel to catch any drips but forgot to take a picture of Turkey baster that I use to suck out the old I "staged" the photo.

I backed this fitting out to drain the fluid from the brake line.

All the old fluid goes into this giant pretzel container.
I can never remember how this dust shield goes back on so I took a picture of it.....the calipers go where the red arrows point.
Besides the calipers I got new rotors which meant the hubs had to be pulled. A perfect time to clean and repack the wheel bearings. That arrow shows where the cotter pin would have been if I hadn't already removed it!

Now it's time to move to the basement to get the old rotors off, bearings cleaned, packed and new rotors installed. I worked one side at a time so I always had the other side as a reference.

On to the basement for the next steps.........more here