Blind Moose Tube Shock Conversion Kit

 

 
 

 

  

The Needed Brace!

Before making up the brace, I decided to clean up the old lever thread mounting holes using my handy dandy re-threading kit.

My good old Thule strap holds the Trailing Arm up
Sears sells a kit that cleans out threads. It doesn't cut them, just cleans them and
it makes a big difference. Just a socket or wrench to run it through the threads.

The brace material used is 1-1/4" weld-able angle iron that is 1/8" thick. I bought a 3' piece from Lowes for about $6.00 and then cut it in half.

NOTE: Work one brace at a time as there's a very definite left and right hand side brace and they will be made as a mirror image of each other.

NOTE: I used all test hardware and nuts that I could re-use as the brackets and mounts were on and off of the car numerous times. The final install will have grade 8 hardware.

First cut a 45 degree V
Then I drilled two 3/8" holes, transferred the hole location to the bracket and
drilled out the bracket holes on my drill press.
A test fit shows how the notch closed up with the bend in the bar.
The tape on top of the bracket tells me that it goes on the right hand side of the car.
The brace falls right on the tie down bracket!
It still needs another notch for a second bend to get it close to the frame side.
Here I marked the top and bottom of the frame on the brace & the hole locations.
Bottom holes drilled and the small bottom notch on the left side & top notch on the left.

A big "C" clamp pulls the brace to the frame for drilling out the frame holes

It's tough to see but that notch did close up a little as the bolts
pulled the brace to the tight to the frame.

The last thing I did was install a 1/8" thick mounting plate behind the frame
where the bottom of the brace bolted through.

Here's the final test fit on the left side of the car.

All that left to do is to have the notches welded up and then a coat or two of paint.