Adjusting Camber with the Kit

Before attempting to adjust my camber I emailed Richard Good with some questions as to the proper sequence and procedure for making any adjustments. So here's what he recommends:

1. Find as level a spot as you can.
2. Jack the rear end up.
3. For everyday driving 1/2 to 1 degree of camber is fine.
4. DO NOT loosen the bracket bolts to the frame.
5. ONLY loosen the nut on the pivot bolt.
6. Make sure the pivot bolt isn't binding
7. It is best to wiggle the ear of the trailing arm up and down a bit using a screw driver or pry bar hooked on top of the lower frame bolt.  This makes sure the tension is off the pivot bolt making it easy to turn the adjuster.
8. Make your adjustment following the kit directions.
9. Follow step #7 and Tighten the pivot bolt BEFORE lowering the car.
10. Roll or drive the car to "set" the suspension.
11. Measure camber and adjust per steps above if necessary.

Before jacking the car up I found a nice level spot in my garage and decided to measure the camber as it sat before making any adjustments. I had a square section of steel tubing that I cut to hit the top and bottom of the rim. Then I had a carpenters magnetic angle finder which shows degrees on a scale. I had been "eyeballing" the wheels and thought they looked about the same with just a little negative camber. Previously my car had some serious negative camber, maybe 5 degrees or more. So after looking at that for 10 years, the current configuration looks quite different. So........much to my surprise, the two wheels measured between 1 & 2 degrees. Seeing as my garage floor isn't perfectly level, I figure they are both around 1 degree. No need to make any adjustments!

If you don't have any angle finder, Buckeye Triumphs has a nice explanation of how to measure and make the necessary calculations. And if you really want to get into suspension geometry, they have a great article here.

The square tubing & angle finder are available at most hardware stores or big box stores.