Before starting the installation I
cleaned up all of the threads on the engine studs by using the
Sears Rethreading Set. This 40 piece set
differs from a tap & die in that it's not used to cut new threads but to repair
and clean up old threads. It includes Metric, SAE Fine and SAE Coarse threads so
everything's covered.
Once I had the engine studs cleaned
up I decided to go with all new nuts, washers and lock washers. The
recommendation was to use brass so as to "eliminate" any future "mating" of the
metals. I couldn't find brass nuts locally in the size I needed but a
Google search turned up BoltDepot.com
located just outside of Boston. Besides having what I needed, they're a wealth
of information on anything bolt/nut related. It's an interesting site to poke
around. The carbs came back mounted to the
manifold so it was a one piece installation. One thing I did buy was a 9/16"
*FLEX* socket, as I had a heck of a time getting at the 6 nuts under the
manifold. When I was removing the carbs I ended up having to take them off of
the manifold in order to get a regular socket on 2 of the nuts. The flex socket
made the installation easy. All the threads on the engine studs were coated with
Loctite copper anti-seize before putting the new brass nuts on.
The only "problem" I ran into was
with the powder coating on the
throttle linkage arm. I had to run my re-threader over all of the threads to
clean them up so they'd turn freely. I ended up setting the accelerator pedal
even with the brake pedal (note where yours is before removing the carbs, it'll
save you time). The choke cables were the usual pain ensuring that the choke
fully opens and closes. Jeff includes new clips for the choke cable. The high
speed idle is set to zero so I moved it out to where it just falls short of
hitting the choke cam and that was perfect...dumb luck. The low speed idle was
just about perfect as received. I think I turned it back in 1/4 turn.
I replaced the fuel filter per Jeff's
instructions and added 15W fork oil to the dashpot. He likes the fork oil for
throttle response and I have to agree. I gave the fuel pump a half dozen manual
primes, gave it full choke and it fired right up and idled nicely. I had a bit
of a scare as smoke was pouring off the carb side of the engine but quickly
realized it was penetrating oil burning off. I used a hose to listen to the
airflow between the carbs and it sounded perfect to these old ears. Jeff sets
the mixture a little on the rich side so I won't even look at adjusting that
until warmer weather. For my infrequent Winter drives it seems fine. I took it
out again today (2/8/06) and it's low 30's and it fired right up. The throttle
response is soooooo much better then before. I always had to blip the throttle
before moving from a stop but now it's so smooth and instant that it's not
necessary. The only other adjustment I need to make is my process for restarting
it once it's warmed up. Before, my procedure for a cold or hot start was always
the same: full choke, foot off of accelerator and it fired right up. Same
procedure for a cold start but it doesn't like a full choke when warm now. So
here's what it looks like back on the car. Money well spent in my view.
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